Ant Spray & Ant Traps For Inside And Outside.
Ant Spray & Ant Traps For Inside And Outside.
There is nothing more annoying than sharing your home with uninvited guests. When you walk into a room and see a few little ants crawling around, it just triggers a feeling of disgust. I don’t mind using ant spray but where did I put it?
You know there can never be just one ant, there are always relatives lurking in the cracks somewhere. I’m always amazed at how they get inside and why they come inside. I keep a very clean and tidy home, so it isn’t like I have crumbs laying all over the floors. However, they decided to move in despite my cleanliness.
I would get rid of a few and more would appear. To me, there was nothing worse than knowing that there were little insects crawling around my home at all hours of the day.
Knowing that there are ants around always makes me feel like they are crawling on my, even if it’s just a breeze that moves a hair over my forehead or neck. I immediately swat at it like it was alive.
I set out to get some ant spray or traps so that I could eliminate the problem before they moved all of the neighborhood ants into my home. With some advice from individuals at the pest control and local hardware store, I bought two kinds of ant spray.
One ant spray was for inside my house and the other one was for outside. They told me that using ant spray inside of the home might not be as effective as what I was hoping it would be. It might just make them seek out other areas of my home to make their nest instead. The ant spray for outside was supposedly very effective. I was supposed to spray it all around my home’s foundation, going out a few extra feet to ensure that the ants would be deterred from even nearing my house to make a dash for it. I also sprayed about a foot up the house, in case they decided to attack from that direction. I was definitely launching a war both inside and outside of my home.
The pest control company told me about several baiting traps to place inside of my house. Once the ants would find them and drink or feed from them, they will be poisoned. I purchased a few of those as well. I was also told to eliminate any anthills that I might find in my flowerbeds or yard that could be a mansion for ants. By destroying those homes, I would be preventing ants from breeding and frolicking around my home.
The pest control professionals told me of not only an ant spray to use on the hills, but a few other powders and such. I was weary of using them because of other wildlife getting into the powders and being harmed. Ever so kindly, they took a few moments to tell me what kinds of prevention I could use outside that would not be harmful to the environment.
One week later, I was once again living alone. No uninvited guests had shown up for days. Right now, I consider myself safe. At least for the time being.
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How to Get The Best Results From Your Compost Bin
If you want to produce the best compost you just need to follow a few tips and your garden will thank you.
Constructing A Compost Bin
Our compost bin is plastic and kind of looks like an upside down garbage can but you can construct your own compost bin with a few stakes and chicken wire. I would suggest you make it about 3 feet square for the best air circulation. That seems to be just the right size for everything to work right.
Filling Your Compost Bin (What To Put In Your Compost Bin)
What’s the best or most balanced mixture for your compost bin, for getting the best results in the shortest time frame.
Green Yard And Kitchen Waste
The green waste is usually high in nitrogen. It’s the green waste that activates the heat process in your compost. Some heat generating yard waste is better at heating, like fresh young weeds that haven’t gone to seed yet. Be sure you keep those grass trimmings as they work well too. We also use our kitchen waste, fruit, vegetable, coffee grounds. We don’t drink much tea but you can use the tea leaves as well, even the bag.
Brown Usable Waste
The brown waste is usually high in carbon. Brown waste includes leaves that fall in autumn, all those dead flowers, plants and weeds. You can also use those cardboard tubes from Christmas wrapping paper, foil wrap, etc. If you use straw to cover flower beds or strawberries you can recycle that through your compost bin when you’re done with it.
What Other Things Can Go In The Compost Bin
We have grocery bags that are made from recycled cloth but every once in a while we will shop somewhere they give us paper bags, if they don’t have a lot of colour or ink we put them straight in the compost bin, well I rip them up to make the pieces break down faster. We also use our egg shell in the compost bin but I also use them to keep slugs out of my garden. Don’t forget the paper towels you use they can go in as well.
Air Circulation For Breathing Room
Your compost bin works best when it has a good flow of air and will NOT stink like some compost bins do, those without a good air supply as it take more bacteria when the air flow is not enough.
Each time you turn your compost pile it will get a new supply of air and will loosen the compost for better air circulation.
Just A Little Water
We keep our compost bin slightly damp but not too wet. Kind of like a sponge you just squeezed the water from, it’s just damp.
Our compost bin has a lid on it that helps to keep a lot of the moisture from the green waste from evaporating so we don’t need to use water much at all, but we keep a close watch on it in the hot dry weather.
We started our composting without adding any extra soil to help jump start the process but I have heard that it’s beneficial at the start so feel free to add some top soil between the layers of compost. A small amount of garden soil between each layer will introduce the bacteria needed to start the compost cycle. The soil that was still attached to plants we pulled and added to the compost bin was enough for us to have great results.
Ant Facts & Types - Ways to Get Rid of Them
There are countless numbers of ant species. For better or worse, they have adapted to living among humans and taking what they can to survive. Sometimes, their colonies become too large and have to be dealt with accordingly. When not living outdoors, ants love to nest in dry or decaying wood but will settle for Styrofoam or fiberglass insulation.
The Argentine Ant is common to rural and urban areas alike. They are identifiable by their tiny size (1/16" long) and brown color. They are the most common ant species in California and they will bite! They are true survivors and will live in and feed on garbage, dead animals or even toothpaste. Due to their unsavory habits, they often come in contact with disease and can be quite dangerous. They will eat just about anything we do and they thrive in dark, moist kitchen and bathroom areas.
The Carpenter Ant is named for his fine skill in tearing wood and crafting a nice nest for the next generation. They cause the most damage in mountainous and forested regions along the central and northern coastlines of California. They are generally larger than other ants and can range from red to black. They cannot sting, but will use their powerful jaws to bite. Keep an eye out for these ants by looking for their winged scouts and discarded wood particles (sometimes called "frass"). It is vital to determine the location of these nests because they can cause untold damage. Examine any frass for clues as to where they have been practicing their craft. Keep in mind that these ants prefer to feed on the honey dew of certain varieties of aphids and can quickly overwhelm and destroy these plants.
The Field Ant is relatively large at a quarter of an inch. They enjoy the sunny outdoors, but they will eat a cooling pie from a windowsill. These ants are the ones that we have all seen in sidewalk cracks.
The Fire Ant is among the most insidious of all insect species. They have a potent bite that burns like salsa in the eyes! They are generally 1/8" long and can be identified by their light red bodies and brown bodies. They build their nests outside in small mounds or inside in anything from wood to drywall. They will eat anything. They have an unhealthy fascination will electricity and their ignorance of proper safety procedures leads them to cause expensive damage to electrical equipment. We use this shocking tendency to draw ants into an isolation chamber by using a solar panel to generate a small, but fascinating current in the Solar Ant Charmer. Also, boric acid is toxic to ants, but it doesn't work immediately.
The Odorous House Ant is a stinky little pest. They are reportedly identifiable by a distinct odor that is released when they are crushed. This odor supposedly resembles that of rotten coconuts, so if you want to be sure, allow some coconuts to rot and compare the smells. These ants have a preference for sweets and live in the same places as most other ants.
The Pavement Ant is partial to living in and around cement. They are less than 1/8th" in length and range from brown to black. These ants will eat almost anything and are thus a good target for baits.
The Pharaoh Ant is a tiny (less than 1/16") critter and is rumored to have come here all the way from Egypt. They have a wasp-like look to them and a surly attitude that reminds us that they were annoying the ancient Egyptians thousands of years ago. They prefer the indoors and warm areas. These ants are particularly tricky to control because any disturbance of the nest causes them to panic and execute an evacuation plan that would make OSHA proud. They will disperse and readily form a new colony in a new and undoubtedly more inconvenient spot. Pay specific attention to leaving the nest itself undisturbed. Baits work very well this ant, while contact pesticides are usually useless.
The Thief Ant is an unsavory character known for stealing the food supply and nests of other colonies. These sneaky guys are among the smallest ants found. When they manage to raid another nest, they will return the food to their ground and wooden dwellings. They are often found scavenging among dead animal carcasses and have even found themselves involved in the lifecycle of a tapeworm species. They are picky eaters and often won't eat a large enough portion to be poisoned with baits.
The Velvety Tree Ant has a soft, velvety abdomen and a red thorax. These stylish cousins are much larger at 3/8" long and prefer to nest in trees. These ants are reputed to share the rotten coconut smell of the Odorous House ant. They prefer sweets but have been known to eat dead animals and dead insects. Beware, these ants will inflict a painful bite.
The Yellow Ant is about 1/8" long and emits a citronella odor when crushed. These ants love moisture and hate daylight, almost like vampire ants. They will seek out rotting wood and will ignore healthy wood altogether. These ants are particularly picky eaters, with a taste for other insects but not for sweets.
Not only that, but carbon dioxide as well!
How do you get rid of cockroaches?
Cockroaches are hearty pests, they have existed in different forms for millions of years and have become adept at the art of survival. They have continually adapted to most chemical treatments, leaving dangerous chemical residue that harms humans and pets. Cockroaches are anything but clean, they routinely dig through garbage and any other waste imaginable. Then they crawl all over countertops, foodstuffs and kitchenware. Roach droppings and bodies have been reported to act as asthmatic triggers that increase the intensity and frequency of asthma problems. Baits tend to work well with these species because they cannibalize the poisoned bodies of their fallen comrades. An often overlooked solution is to sprinkle infested areas with diatomaceous earth (DE). DE is often used in pool filters, it consists of fossilized marine remains that forms a fine talc-like powder. This substance is completely inert and will not pose any threat to people or animals. DE has an almost microscopic crystalline structure that will perforate and kill the soft bodied roaches. Roaches cannot adapt to this material because it physically harms the abdomen of the roach. As with other pests, it is important to make sure that window and door frames are sealed and all structural cracks are filled in. Make sure to eliminate damp areas, leaks and spills as well as food sources to limit their access to the necessary food and water. In order to use a more specific roach treatment, it is recommended that you place sticky traps in order to allow for more a positive identification of species.
7 Homemade Organic Pesticide Recipes
Spider mites, aphids and other pests can cause considerable damage to flowers and food plants (that is fruits and vegetables). These creatures attack your garden in swarms, literally draining the life from your crops and often inviting disease in the process.
Many chemical pesticides can prove unsafe for the environment or may make crops unsafe for consumption, however.
Thankfully, there are many homemade, organic options for you to turn to in your “war” on pests.
Method 1: Using neem oil
1. Combine ½ ounce (15 milliliters) of neem oil with half a teaspoon (2 ½ milliliters) of mild soap. Many believe neem oil, which comes from a bitter tree leaf, to be one of the most effective natural pesticides in existence.
2. Mix the neem and soap into 2 quarts (2 liters) of warm water. Stir slowly, but thoroughly.
3. Pour the pesticide into a spray bottle. Use it immediately, dousing the entire plant and focusing on spots where you can clearly see pests or signs of pests.
Method 2: Using cooking oil
1. Select a mild liquid dish-washing soap. Avoid anti-bacterial, scented and other specialized soaps, since these may damage your plants.
2. Mix 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) of your selected soap with 1 cup (250 milliliters) cooking oil in a small bowl. Use either canola or vegetable oil.
3. Combine 2 and ½ teaspoons (12 milliliters) of this oil mixture into 1 cup (250 milliliters) of water. Mix thoroughly.
4. Pour this new mixture into a large squirt bottle. Give the mixture another shake inside the bottle to combine it more thoroughly.
5. Test the mix by spraying it onto a small portion of your plant. This step allows you to make sure that the mix will not cause more harm than good. If the section of the plant you test the spray on wilts or changes color, try using a different soap for this pesticide (or another type of pesticide for that matter).
6. Spray the mixture anywhere you have encountered problems. If you tested your solution and it did not cause any harm to your plant, spray it around your entire plant, including the undersides of leaves. Focus on areas where pests lay their eggs, since an oil spray is designed to target eggs and immature bugs.
Method 3: Using soap
1. Opt for a mild liquid dish-washing soap. The milder your soap is, the less likely it is to have a harmful effect on your plants. Stay away from anti-bacterial, scented and other specialized soaps.
2. Mix a few teaspoons (10 to 15 milliliters) of your selected soap into 1 gallon (3.8 liters) of water. Combine the soap and water using your hands or a large spoon.
3. Pour the solution into a large squirt bottle. You may not be able to fit all of the solution into a bottle, but you should use the largest bottle you can find to make use of as much of the solution as possible.
4. Spray the entire plant. Cover the top and undersides of leaves, focusing on the areas that seem the most overcome. This spray works by paralyzing insects, that is making them unable to eat.
5. Continue to spray your plants every two to three days for the next 2 weeks. Since this pesticide is fairly diluted, continued application is the only way to ensure that the infestation eventually ends.
Method 4: Using tobacco
1. Mix 1 cup (250 milliliters) of tobacco into 1 gallon (3.8 liters) of water. Tobacco is useful in targeting caterpillars, aphids and worms, but it is not safe to use it on peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, or any member of the solanaceous plant family.
2. Sit the mixture out in the sun or in another warm location. Allow it to rest for 24 hours.
3. Check the color of the mixture. Ideally, the pesticide will look similar to the hue of a light tea. If it is too dark, dilute it with water. If it is too light to see, allow it to sit an additional few hours.
4. Add 3 tablespoons (45 milliliters) of mild liquid dish soap to the solution. Mix thoroughly.
5. Pour the mixture into a large squirt bottle. Shake the solution inside the bottle once more to combine it further.
6. Spray the infested plants. Focus on areas that show the most damage, but also cover spots that still seem in good condition.
Method 5: Using oranges
1. Peel an orange. If you do not have a fresh orange, use 1.5 teaspoons (7.4 milliliters) of dried citrus peels or ½ ounce (15 milliliters) of orange oil. Citrus is especially helpful in targeting soft-bodied bugs, including slugs, aphids, fungus gnats and mealy bugs. When sprayed directly onto the pests, this pesticide also works against ants and roaches.
2. Place the peels into a glass container and pour 2 cups (500 milliliters) of boiling water over the peels. Allow the solution to sit in a warm spot around the clock (24 hours).
3. Add a few drops of castile soap. Peppermint-scented castile soap may prove especially effective. Mix the solution thoroughly to combine.
Method 6: Using chrysanthemums
1. Combine ½ cup (113 grams) of dried chrysanthemums with 4 cups (1 liter) of water. Chrysanthemums contain a chemical component called pyrethrum, which is capable of paralyzing many garden insects.
2. Boil the mixture for 20 minutes. Boiling the mixture releases the pyrethrum into the water.
3. Pour the solution through a strainer. Remove the dried flowers and save the infused water.
4. Pour the pesticide into a spray bottle and treat plants. Focus on the most damaged areas before moving onto less damaged areas. Cover the entire plant, including the undersides of leaves.
5. Store the solution up to 2 months. After that period, it may no longer be effective.
Method 7: Using hot vegetables
1. Combine ½ cup (113 grams) of hot peppers with ½ cup (113 grams) of garlic cloves or onions. You may also use both onions and garlic. All the vegetables should be chopped prior to their use.
2. Blend the vegetables together in an electric blender. A thick, chunky paste should form after the blending.
3. Add the vegetable paste to 2 cups (500 milliliters) of warm water. Thoroughly mix the ingredients together.
4. Pour the solution into a plastic or glass container and allow it to sit for 24 hours. If possible, keep it in a sunny location. If not, at least keep the mixture in a warm spot.
5. Strain the mixture. Pour the solution through a strainer, removing the vegetables and collecting the vegetable-infused water into another container. This water is your pesticide.
6. Pour your pesticide into a squirt bottle. Make sure that the spray bottle has first been thoroughly cleaned with warm water and disinfected with soap to rid it of any potential contaminants.
7. Spray your plants with the pesticide. Treat the infected plants every four to five days. After three or four treatments, the pests should scatter. If the area is thoroughly covered, this pesticide should keep bugs away for the rest of the season.
A tip: You can create a more potent pesticide by combining different organic pesticide solutions. For instance, neem oil can be added to a chrysanthemum spray.
Warning: Many pesticides, especially tobacco and soap-based sprays, can cause damage to certain plants. Test your pesticide on a small portion of a plant before wetting the entire thing. This way, you can see whether or not a certain pesticide is likely to cause more harm than good.
This recipe makes two pies but you could also combine it into one deep dish pie instead. You can use premade crusts like I did or make your own, just don’t bake the crust first. I’ll make this again at Christmas with my own crust recipe…I don’t think I’ve shared that here on the blog either!
10 Best Indoor Plants for Clean Air (No. 5 is Special)
So apparently this is like a superfood and nontoxic bug killer. Reading the Amazon reviews was very compelling! #health #pesticides #diatomaceousearth #healthyliving #healthyhome
Natural Ways To Keep Mosquitoes Away
Female mosquitoes have a long proboscis that they use to pierce the skin and tap the bloodstream. Mosquitoes are dangerous pests that happen to act as disease vectors, creating a nuisance and a health hazard. Humans and animals alike are easy targets for the over 200 species of mosquitoes. Mosquitoes are known to carry dengue fever, malaria, yellow fever, west nile virus, encephalitis and more. Mosquitoes lay eggs that float on standing water, hence the need for the immediate removal of still water. The larval mosquitoes tuck underneath the water surface to grow, using a snorkel like apparatus (known as the siphon) to breath. They will eventually hatch and reproduce themselves, drastically increasing the size of their population in a short period of time. They are drawn to signs of life including the presence of heat, motion, CO2, humidity and odor. The females must obtain blood as a means of acquiring the protein necessary for egg production and development. Flowering plants and other nectar sources serve as the mosquito's prime food source, so think twice about flower placement if your region is susceptible to mosquito invasion. Also, there are many mosquito repellent plants that you can grow in your garden to get rid of them. Some of them are Catmint, Rosemary, Basil, Lavender etc There are plenty of products available that will kill mosquitoes without harming people, pets or other wildlife. Some store bought products can be just as toxic to people and pets as they are to mosquitoes Mosquitoes can be hazardous to health, so there is no sense in removing with chemicals that can be as harmful. We recommend using multiple methods of pest control to protect yourself, your family and your environment.
Top 100 Homemaking Blogs Every Homemaker Must Follow
Homemaking Blogs Top 100 List
Want to make cleaning and organizing your home easier? Or just wish managing your home could be fun? Reading homemaking blogs can be your one-stop-shop for reliable information and quality resources about homemaking. So we bring to you the Best 100 Homemaking blogs which will help you to learn organizing, scheduling, cooking, fixing, budgeting, menu-planning and to manage your home without losing your mind! Here is the list : https://blog.feedspot.com/homemaking_blogs/
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